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Hanuman
02-23-2010, 11:58 AM
What are Swordchucks? They are 2 long slim sword-shaped weights attached to a bit of chain attached to another symmetrical weight, so when one is held it becomes the handle or Held Sword (HS), and the other becomes the weight or Swinging Sword (SS), and you can hold it either in standard sword grip or Forward Grip, or have it held away from the thumb or Reverse Grip.

There are certain techniques unique to swordchucks, the feel, the body movement, the mechanical geometry, but essentially they are a fusion of these 3 things:

Poi - A new variation of a Maori combat training/music/dance instrument (http://www.youtube.com/watch#playnext=1&playnext_from=TL&videos=1yWwdoqJyz0&v=acXcx6Lxp7U), Poi are now a light or fire/light/dance/juggling instrument.
Doublestaff - A doublestaff is a shorter (3'-4') single staff used for fire performance, since both ends can be lit doublestaff can make use of 4 points of fire at the same time, strictly as a fire/light/juggling/dance instrument.
Double Meteor Hammer - A Shaolin weapon, the double meteor hammer is more known for performance rather than combat, the traditional combat instrument would be the single meteor hammer (http://www.youtube.com/watch#v=-ZMM0ESgXrA), possibly the most powerful of all soft weapons.


Poi Example (http://www.youtube.com/watch#v=TVp6zjuxrmk)
Doublestaff Example (http://www.youtube.com/watch#playnext=1&playnext_from=TL&videos=itQHnMJmeIo&v=Pz30WRg2JBo)
Double Meteor Hammer Example
(http://www.youtube.com/watch#playnext=1&playnext_from=TL&videos=CKoCbHYCbZU&v=iuUGR8IHJro)

Because of this fusion, swordchucks (when used 2 at a time) are much more difficult to use than any single one of these tools, so to understand how swordchucks work you can actually build any of these other tools to train with and learn swordchucks indirectly, and since swordchucks use about 4-16 times the amount of fire of other tools it would be good to train with other tools on fire before you try swordchucks on fire.

Poi Section

What is poi? You manipulate a swung weight on a tether, this will help you master not hitting yourself with the swung sword as where the held sword handle ends and the chain begins, it becomes poi.

The BIG difference between standard poi and swordchucks are that the poi is held in REVERSE, which does change the physical body movements and some of the patterns you can accomplish, but not the principle of it. There are about 5 or 6 grips in poi, generally only forward and reverse grip have been useful to me as all of the others generally disable throws and are used for greenhorns so it's easier on their hands and make sure it doesn't fly out.
Forward Grip
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3954/forwardyn.jpg

Reverse Grip
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8884/handbackwards.jpg

New! Real Pictures:
Forward = http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/1667/dsc00051g.jpg
Reverse = http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1021/dsc00049ja.jpg


To avoid hitting yourself, the ultimate way to avoid this is developing spacial awareness, and general awareness (through developing your ability to feel) as you explore the Poi aspect you'll be able to tell where you are facing at all times (N/S/E/W and exact spaces in between), where both of your poi are, how much energy is in them and where that energy is going, and understanding how long they are down the the millimeter.
Spacial awareness is one of the biggest tools you can get, as it manages pretty much everything, allows you to do all this blind (literally), and from it comes the ability to make your planes clean, which makes it both safer, gives it the ability to be more intricate without fear of tangling, and makes it more visually pleasing.
Planes, From the Audience's Perspective
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/6997/npfplanespect.jpg

Weighting of poi generally follows the guidelines that the weight of the head is heavier or equal to the combined weight of the chain which can vary from 1:1 head:chain ratio for heavy chains on fire poi (with no wooden filler) to around 20:1 for our Mark 4.5 chain mail poi and braided chain mail tether; Swordchucks on the other hand actually have their head using around 80% of where the tether should be, making them more like snakes (http://www.trickconcepts.com/Pair-of-Fire-Snake-Poi-P23C23.aspx) than anything else.
Distributing weight like this causes a few effects, one is that the inertia of the head diminishes which means that isolating (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOZkuSYOmPo) the poi becomes very difficult, the other is that the mass at the head doesn't FEEL as sharp, which means that your timing (which is based on your gravity line-- feeling where DOWN is based on the gravity of whatever you are swinging, which is important because the lowest point in your circle is how you calibrate your sense of timing both poi-body timing and poi-poi timing which a lot of the time work like gears, and since they go all-which-ways around you... while on fire... you generally need to be able to spin completely blind.


Poi Learning Links-

Poi Community by Yuta http://poicommunity.com/online_lesson/enindex.php


This guide will be ongoing and will be added to to display all information gathered in the future, expect frequent updates.

Green Spanner
02-23-2010, 12:02 PM
Opening up your own martial-arts school, Lev?

Because I could not approve more.

Hanuman
02-23-2010, 12:06 PM
Yes sir, dance/fire/juggling/martial arts hybrid.
I've been recruited to teach classes at this years Anime Evolution in Vancouver BC Canada

Amake
02-23-2010, 12:32 PM
If you want to make it a little more tricky, I suggest swordchucks with sticky hands (http://www.akron-novelty.com/ProdImages/StickyStretchHandToy.jpg) in place of chains. :)

bobfish
02-23-2010, 03:18 PM
since swordchucks use about 4-16 times the amount of fire of other tools it would be good to train with other tools on fire before you try swordchucks on fire.

You should also train with things not on fire before trying them on fire.

Veho
02-23-2010, 03:33 PM
You should also train with things not on fire before trying them on fire.

That sort of wishy-washy attitude will get you nowhere. It's like saying "why don't you practice half a backflip before trying an entire backflip." The best way to teach someone to swim is to throw them in the water. Similarly, the best way to teach someone flaming swordchucks is to set them on fire.


And you can light the swordchucks too.


;)

Hanuman
02-24-2010, 10:49 AM
Generally the #1 rule with fire is that you ARE going to get burned, so if you cannot fully accept that.. then you are just not ready for fire.. and as soon as you accept that then you are ready.
Giving someone a lit torch to rub on their arms and stuff is really a good way to teach someone about fire.

The whole thing about swordchucks is that you need to know how they work before you start using them... they are MONSTROUSLY hot and if you don't know what you are doing you will either burn your hands severely, or you will drop them.
How they work is that the fire is constantly circling your hands, half the avenues of movement at any time are also superheated air so trying to escape the heat field you constantly generate can lead to superheated gloves OR a few seconds of relief from the heat field so its important to stay moving to escape the heat or you generally will BBQ your hands (gloves are mandatory, current model will give you 2nd-3rd degree burns without them even if used correctly).

kh3lgar
02-24-2010, 03:57 PM
Not to sound like a jerk, but have you tried making a sword chuck with real swords? I know it would cost some extra money but it'd really be worth it to see a genuine sword chuck used as a weapon.

Getting it to cut anything is an entirely different story tho. I don't know if it's phisically possible to cut anything while swinging swords around with a chain.

Don't do it unless you are 100% certain it's safe though.It is probably incredibly unstable and you won't have anything to protect you from cutting yourself if you do something wrong.

Anyway, very very nice work with the flame chucks. I look forward to seeing some movies with them.

Hanuman
02-25-2010, 06:45 PM
have you tried making a sword chuck with real swords? I know it would cost some extra money but it'd really be worth it to see a genuine sword chuck used as a weapon.That's an interesting proposal, TBH the entire design process thus far has been geared toward the current model and only the current model... sure the length, width, materials and wick application may have changed, but the MACHINE principle was constant.

So, now that I think about it-- if we change the machine principle slightly the application of the swung sword MIGHT be viable... just change the chain to a tether with linearly pivots, like a bike chain does, and then you have a swung weight with a constant plane of weight face. I'll take our wooden sparring shortswords and try to rig something up and play with the design. Thanks!

Edit- I've arranged a session with our artist this week, if we get around to drawing up the blueprints for this new design I'll post them up... or if it's beta designs of the fighter armor then I'll post those.

Veho
02-26-2010, 09:14 AM
So, now that I think about it-- if we change the machine principle slightly the application of the swung sword MIGHT be viable... just change the chain to a tether with linearly pivots, like a bike chain does, and then you have a swung weight with a constant plane of weight face.

Linear pivots will limit your motion; they will give you more control but the whole construction will behave awkwardly. Instead, you can keep the "soft" link and add some sort of stabilizers to the "flying" blades, that will turn the cutting edge to face the way the blade is moving, like a weatherwane in the wind.

Hanuman
02-26-2010, 01:12 PM
That's a very good point and I did consider that during the prelim phases of the design process with the originals, basically how that works is to attach flags (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9RibCIn08E) to the back of them, or you modify the sword enough so the majority of the weight and shape is in the back of it, but unfortunately the distribution of a sword's weight and swinging power makes these options nearly unusable, especially considering if the HS were to be swung at any point you'd first need to untangle it's stabilizers (if symmetrical).

The way the linear pivoting design works is that it basically turns your SS into an extension of your grip (planewise) which means impacts no longer stray off like a flail, instead they are limited to only 1 plane of motion, so it's either hit or controlled return.
Example: Butterfly Knife Swordchuck (http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/2972/butterflyingsword.jpg)

The variation we came up with last night is to put a pivot in to give it an extra plane of rotation, to ease the transition a bit from shaolin saber moves that go behind the head.

What it comes down to is how many pivot links should be put in between the swords? 0 would focus the swords power staight to it's tip (which would be great, if SSB Marth tactics "really" worked), and the more links put in the more energy can be transformed into that slashing motion swords are adored for.

Anyway, thanks!

Veho
02-26-2010, 03:12 PM
I only suggested the soft link and stabilizers so that the SS would behave like an actual nunchuck but still be able to cut. But come to think of it, you couldn't really use swordchucks like you would the nunchucks anyhow, the nunchucks being much shorter (and significantly less sharp). The behaviour - handling, striking and control would be completely different, so the point is moot.

The biggest problem with a free-flailing soft-linked SS (untangling aside) would be bringing them back under control after a strike. A nunchuck bounces off wildly after a strike and you have to spin it to get it back under control and where you want it; who knows how a flying sword would react. The nunchuck is short and there's little chance of it bouncing back and accidentally beheading you. A sword would be long and who knows where it might end up.

Having a linear pivoting link is actually a great idea. It gives you the most control over the SS, while retaining most of the flexibility of the nunchucks. You can add some range to the motion by letting the handle of the HS swivel in your hand (exactly like the held segment of the butterfly knife, a great example), and then grip the handle firmly and instantly change the direction of the arc and strike from any position the SS might be in, without having to get it into a strike position like you would with a free flying SS (or regular nunchucks).

I imagined it held in a reverse grip, using the SS like a whip.

Regarding the number of the links: slashing is the way to go. More links would make thrusting attacks difficult or more likely impossible, but you can always thrust and stab with the HS and slash with the SS. Of course that's up to personal preference, and this is mine :D

Then again, I lack your experience in handling wavy flaily things (knives being my weapon of choice), so I can only guess at the actual feel of the thing and all I can offer are half baked vague ideas you probably already considered (and likely dismissed). :whee:

Hanuman
02-26-2010, 07:00 PM
No they are great ideas, the thing is, is that an a sword that's made stable only by alternate air pressure will become unstable upon hit just because the air pressure has ceased so the stability of the sword's face will be lost. The way around that would be to modify the SS so the hit point is in front of the actual weight behind it, so about 70% towards the tip you could have a protrusion in the blade sort of forming an axe.... but then you might as well just use an axe and put the weight where it's efficient.... no this is about fighter's infatuation with swords, and I'll make this work!!

kh3lgar
02-27-2010, 05:11 AM
So I'm guessing at first you'll be using the swords with their sheaths firmly attached.Or at least something to cover the swords and prevent them from cutting you, while at the same time keeping their original weight.

If you start with wooden swords, both the weight and the weight distribution of the swords will be completely off.

*EDIT: And there's no point in using a sword chuck to stab.It's supposed to slash. If you really want to stab someone you just grab one of the swords by the handle, and use it like a normal sword.

Hanuman
02-27-2010, 12:15 PM
We'll be starting with wood since it's inexpensive, light, and hazard-proof; technically it doesn't matter what distribution we start with if we don't know what distribution we are actually going for until post-build... but I do know that it will be easier to use if the weight is more at the handle and more effective if the weight is near the tip.

As for stabbing, I've not really worked this out with the multi-pivot linear tether design (designed for mono-pivot), but the theory was that the guards would be square and line up, then you can hit them together to connect them... making another equally ridiculous FF-like sword (http://medieval.stormthecastle.com/images/swords/519dCi4vUmL__AA280_.jpg).

Hanuman
02-28-2010, 07:45 PM
This coming week I'll be starting formal training and form with the Jian, which is going to be the future model sword proportions for all viable swordchuck weapon models, the weight, balance, aerodynamics and pommel usage all line up the best out of any sword.
Looks like we have a winner.

Aldurin
02-28-2010, 11:29 PM
Make it both a real blade and on fire. You have to live up to the reputation of swordchucks.

Hanuman
03-01-2010, 01:06 AM
I can inner-rib the sword with kevlar easily, but the sword would be able to be broken... Jian's are already fairly weak because they are razor sharp.

kh3lgar
03-01-2010, 05:47 AM
No, real swords on fire have already been done. And sword chucks on fire have already been done by Lev.What we want to see here is sword chucks used to cut, not burn.Making another model of flame chucks would be pointless.

Hanuman
03-11-2010, 11:28 AM
No, real swords on fire have already been done. And sword chucks on fire have already been done by Lev.What we want to see here is sword chucks used to cut, not burn.Making another model of flame chucks would be pointless.
I would eventually like to build a model that doesn't literally BBQ the hands of the user. :)

DrakeWurrum
03-11-2010, 07:33 PM
There is one problem with flaming swordchucks. Super soakers.

Aldurin
03-11-2010, 08:25 PM
There is one problem with flaming swordchucks. Super soakers.

That's why you have them bladed so that you can even kick but in a rainstorm.

Hanuman
03-11-2010, 08:28 PM
There is one problem with flaming swordchucks. Super soakers.

This might be solved by soaking in citronella oil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5klV_zM0V6M) for the fuel... but I'm sure that's gotta be about as dangerous as deepfrying a whole frozen turkey.

Hanuman
03-17-2010, 10:19 PM
New Development-
A new day has dawned in the art of the swordchuck, which may drastically change the potential of swordchuckery forever.

What is it? Oh, it's just adding ANOTHER SWUNG SWORD TO EACH HAND.
Yes, that's right, 3 swords are discovered viable PER HAND, expect to see examples in the future.

Green Spanner
03-18-2010, 08:28 AM
New Development-
A new day has dawned in the art of the swordchuck, which may drastically change the potential of swordchuckery forever.

What is it? Oh, it's just adding ANOTHER SWUNG SWORD TO EACH HAND.
Yes, that's right, 3 swords are discovered viable PER HAND, expect to see examples in the future.

You're fucking insane.

...

...I approve.

Hanuman
10-12-2010, 08:42 AM
Wow, I kinda dropped the ball with this one.

Sorry bout that, back to work!