That's a very good point and I did consider that during the prelim phases of the design process with the originals, basically how that works is to attach flags to the back of them, or you modify the sword enough so the majority of the weight and shape is in the back of it, but unfortunately the distribution of a sword's weight and swinging power makes these options nearly unusable, especially considering if the HS were to be swung at any point you'd first need to untangle it's stabilizers (if symmetrical).

The way the linear pivoting design works is that it basically turns your SS into an extension of your grip (planewise) which means impacts no longer stray off like a flail, instead they are limited to only 1 plane of motion, so it's either hit or controlled return.
Example: Butterfly Knife Swordchuck

The variation we came up with last night is to put a pivot in to give it an extra plane of rotation, to ease the transition a bit from shaolin saber moves that go behind the head.

What it comes down to is how many pivot links should be put in between the swords? 0 would focus the swords power staight to it's tip (which would be great, if SSB Marth tactics "really" worked), and the more links put in the more energy can be transformed into that slashing motion swords are adored for.

Anyway, thanks!

I only suggested the soft link and stabilizers so that the SS would behave like an actual nunchuck but still be able to cut. But come to think of it, you couldn't really use swordchucks like you would the nunchucks anyhow, the nunchucks being much shorter (and significantly less sharp). The behaviour - handling, striking and control would be completely different, so the point is moot.

The biggest problem with a free-flailing soft-linked SS (untangling aside) would be bringing them back under control after a strike. A nunchuck bounces off wildly after a strike and you have to spin it to get it back under control and where you want it; who knows how a flying sword would react. The nunchuck is short and there's little chance of it bouncing back and accidentally beheading you. A sword would be long and who knows where it might end up.

Having a linear pivoting link is actually a great idea. It gives you the most control over the SS, while retaining most of the flexibility of the nunchucks. You can add some range to the motion by letting the handle of the HS swivel in your hand (exactly like the held segment of the butterfly knife, a great example), and then grip the handle firmly and instantly change the direction of the arc and strike from any position the SS might be in, without having to get it into a strike position like you would with a free flying SS (or regular nunchucks).

I imagined it held in a reverse grip, using the SS like a whip.

Regarding the number of the links: slashing is the way to go. More links would make thrusting attacks difficult or more likely impossible, but you can always thrust and stab with the HS and slash with the SS. Of course that's up to personal preference, and this is mine :D

Then again, I lack your experience in handling wavy flaily things (knives being my weapon of choice), so I can only guess at the actual feel of the thing and all I can offer are half baked vague ideas you probably already considered (and likely dismissed). :whee:

No they are great ideas, the thing is, is that an a sword that's made stable only by alternate air pressure will become unstable upon hit just because the air pressure has ceased so the stability of the sword's face will be lost. The way around that would be to modify the SS so the hit point is in front of the actual weight behind it, so about 70% towards the tip you could have a protrusion in the blade sort of forming an axe.... but then you might as well just use an axe and put the weight where it's efficient.... no this is about fighter's infatuation with swords, and I'll make this work!!

So I'm guessing at first you'll be using the swords with their sheaths firmly attached.Or at least something to cover the swords and prevent them from cutting you, while at the same time keeping their original weight.

If you start with wooden swords, both the weight and the weight distribution of the swords will be completely off.

*EDIT: And there's no point in using a sword chuck to stab.It's supposed to slash. If you really want to stab someone you just grab one of the swords by the handle, and use it like a normal sword.

We'll be starting with wood since it's inexpensive, light, and hazard-proof; technically it doesn't matter what distribution we start with if we don't know what distribution we are actually going for until post-build... but I do know that it will be easier to use if the weight is more at the handle and more effective if the weight is near the tip.

As for stabbing, I've not really worked this out with the multi-pivot linear tether design (designed for mono-pivot), but the theory was that the guards would be square and line up, then you can hit them together to connect them... making another equally ridiculous FF-like sword.

This coming week I'll be starting formal training and form with the Jian, which is going to be the future model sword proportions for all viable swordchuck weapon models, the weight, balance, aerodynamics and pommel usage all line up the best out of any sword.
Looks like we have a winner.

I can inner-rib the sword with kevlar easily, but the sword would be able to be broken... Jian's are already fairly weak because they are razor sharp.

No, real swords on fire have already been done. And sword chucks on fire have already been done by Lev.What we want to see here is sword chucks used to cut, not burn.Making another model of flame chucks would be pointless.

I would eventually like to build a model that doesn't literally BBQ the hands of the user. :)